At NeueHouse Madison Square, WÀNGDA unveiled the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, a compelling blend of contemporary tailoring and raw emotion. Designed by Wàngda Chen, the collection was not just about clothing—it was a thoughtful reflection on perseverance and transformation, embracing the tension between exhaustion and elegance, struggle and refinement.
A Designer’s Journey Between Two Worlds
Wàngda Chen’s work has always been shaped by his dual cultural influences. Leaving his homeland at just 16 years old, he immersed himself in the openness and diversity of American culture while holding onto the principles of Eastern restraint. His latest collection continues this dialogue, merging structured minimalism with avant-garde expression to create a compelling and deeply personal exploration of self-reconstruction.
“Life is a paradox where struggle and beauty, love and hate, admiration and jealousy intertwine,” Chen shared after his second Fashion Week presentation at NeueHouse. “A loved one can break your heart, and a stranger can heal your wound. No one is ahead or behind; we are all on our own journeys. Life is exhausting, but it has its glamour—I think that’s something I can live with.”
This philosophy of contradiction and transformation is woven into every aspect of the collection, with garments that feel simultaneously timeworn yet sophisticated, structured yet free-flowing.
A Hauntingly Beautiful Presentation
Set against the industrial-chic backdrop of NeueHouse, WÀNGDA’s Autumn/Winter 2025 presentation felt more like a cinematic experience than a traditional runway show. Models moved with an air of exhaustion, their hollowed eyes and smudged makeup giving them the appearance of figures emerging from an emotional battlefield.
The mood was further heightened by the melancholic soundscapes of DJ David Katz, as the models paused on the Spanish steps—a striking juxtaposition of weariness and elegance. This intentional contrast underscored Wàngda’s overarching theme: that beauty can emerge from struggle, and refinement often arises from hardship.
Precision Tailoring Meets Raw Emotion
The collection itself was a study in restraint and refinement, using precise tailoring to create an air of understated luxury. Sharp cuts, structured shoulders, and fluid silhouettes formed a wardrobe that was both commanding and effortless.
The color palette was rich yet muted, featuring earthy neutrals—taupe, camel, brown, and deep charcoal—enhanced by classic plaids, subtle embroidery, and bold red-and-white striped shirting. Each look showcased a thoughtful interplay of textures, with structured wool, soft flannels, supple leather, and lightweight cotton shirting adding depth and versatility.
Outerwear was a standout, ranging from modern cropped wool coats and rust-colored hoodies to deep brown and black leather jackets that exuded a sense of edgy sophistication. Overcoats featured oversized lapels, epaulets, and cuffed sleeves, balancing timeless elegance with a relaxed silhouette.
The collection’s tailoring acknowledges heritage menswear while remaining distinctly contemporary, with slim-cut plaid blazers offering a vintage touch and classic button-ups reimagined with bold pinstripes. These elements illustrate Wàngda’s ability to merge tradition with modern refinement, creating garments that transition seamlessly from business-formal to elevated casual wear.
A Collection Rooted in Resilience
WÀNGDA’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection is more than just a showcase of impeccable tailoring—it offers a philosophical statement on survival and reinvention. Each piece tells a story of breaking down, rebuilding, and ultimately finding renewed strength.
“Fashion is a reflection of the self in motion,” Wàngda reflected. “This collection is about breaking down, reshaping, and ascending—discovering the unwavering faith within struggle and using it to carve a new path forward.”
The collection draws inspiration from the delicate balance between restraint and freedom, referencing the work of designers like Amiri, Thom Browne, and Rick Owens. From Amiri’s fearless ambition to Thom Browne’s disciplined sportsmanship and Rick Owens’ deconstruction of convention, Wàngda weaves these influences into a collection that feels deeply personal yet broadly relatable.
The Future of WÀNGDA
WÀNGDA continues to push the boundaries of contemporary menswear, exploring how fashion can embody philosophical and emotional depth. His pieces are more than garments—they are manifestations of perseverance, transformation, and artistic rebellion.
Each tailored cut symbolizes personal growth, and every fabric choice reflects the tension between struggle and refinement. In a world that often demands polished perfection, WÀNGDA suggests that beauty lies in imperfection, and true elegance is born from resilience.
Published by Anne C.
